David Rattray was the finest living historian of the Anglo-Zulu conflicts, an incredible speaker able to transport you right back to each key moment in a battle and make it come alive around you. Although he is no longer alive, his wife and sons continue his work at Fugitive’s Drift Lodge and Guest House, the beautiful colonial buildings set amidst their own nature reserve, which encompasses the river ford where Lts Coghill and Melville won the first ever posthumous Victoria Crosses for their attempts to save the Queens Colour in the brutal retreat after the British defeat at Isandlwana. Guiding is at the heart of everything at Fugitive’s, and the guides have all learnt the skills that David Rattray had, making their tours unbelievably moving. By focusing on the individuals involved in the battles, it brings an unexpected personal dimension to the stories, giving them all the more power. For many aficionados of the Anglo-Zulu wars, there is simply nowhere else to stay in The Battlefields.